Hair developer is typically formulated in different strengths, from 5 Vol and 7 Vol all the way to 40 Vol. It helps the color or bleach open up the outer layer of the hair (the cuticle, in other words) and allows the mix to penetrate the hair shaft. Hair Developer is essentially hydrogen peroxide formulated inside a cream base in order to make it more cosmetic and gentle for the hair and the scalp.ĭeveloper activates the hair color and bleach. Use mixing bowls or a weighing scale for best results.However, we would suggest if you are new to coloring that you do not pour by sight.Our colorist, Elona Taki, is an experienced colorist and she is pouring in her developer by sight.Both mixes are in line with what we at Ugly Duckling Color recommend: 1:2 for the bleach and 1:1 for the color.Watch this video to the end: you will see both a bleach mix (Brilliant Blonde blue bleach) as well as a color mix (10.2 Extra Light Cool Blonde).This is a 2 step technique: bleach on the regrowth followed by a blonde color application.HOW TO MIX BLEACH & COLOR WITH DEVELOPER - WATCH VIDEO: The recommended mix for liquid toners (Blondify) is 1+1. Use 7, 10 or 20 Vol for Ugly Duckling liquid ammonia-free toners according to lift required. Use 20 Vol for Ugly Duckling cream toners and high lift colors (anything beginning with 100). The recommended mix for our bleaches 1+2 The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling cream and liquid toners, & with high lift colors It is not required, as our bleaches lift very fast. Use 30 Vol for any lift higher than 3 levels lift.ĭo not use 40 Vol with Ugly Duckling bleaches. Use 20 Vol for up to 3 levels lift and for the regrowth area (hair processes faster there because of the heat from the scalp) The recommended mix for our hair color is 1+1 The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling bleaches Use 20 Vol for 1-2 levels lift, for toning blonde hair and for grey hair coverage. Use 10 Vol for level on level-on-level coloring and going darker. Bullet-Point Summary - Getting your Developer Use Right The rules for developer choice with Ugly Duckling colors For example, a volume 10 developer will lift your hair by 1 shade, a 20-volume will lift it by 2 shades, and a 30-volume will lift it by 3-4 shades.Choosing the Right Developer Strength & Getting the Mix Right Are Really Important For the Final Color Result. Each increment of 10 represents another level of color that can be lifted.Volume 10 is perfect if you're trying to make a slight hair color change-for instance, if your hair is dark brown, and you want to dye it black. Volume 10 developer is a good choice to use in conjunction with a toner, as it will balance the toner out.Volume 10 developer is recommended for use on thin or fine hair, as it’s not very strong and won’t overly strip your delicate strands.Volume 10 is a great option if you’re hoping to go just a bit darker than your current hair color and don’t need to lift or remove any of your existing hair color. Volume 10 is the weakest developer level, containing only 3% hydrogen peroxide. Hair developer uses various percentages of hydrogen peroxide to lift the hair’s cuticle layer and deposit color-the higher the peroxide percentage is, the more it lifts and strips the hair. Use volume 10 developer to lift your color a single level.
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